Question

A storm generates large waves in the Pacific Ocean. On November 25, 2008, 6pm, swell with a
wave height of 5m reaches an exposed location at the coast of Southern California. At 6am of the next
day, the wave height is 4m. The water depth within 100 km of the coast is 1000 m and 3000 m
everywhere else. All waves have a steepness of ak=0.25. [For formulas please refer to notes from the
lecture slides].
a) How far offshore were the waves generated by that storm?
b) How long did it take the waves to travel from the storm area, where they were generated, to the
coast?
c) At what date and time do waves with a height of 2m reach the same location at the coast?
d) How long does it take a tsunami with a wave length of 120km to travel the same distance
(travelling perpendicular towards shore)?

Answer 1