The speed of a water wave is described by v= (gd)^(1/2) where d is the water depth,...

The speed of a water wave is described by v= (gd)^(1/2) where d is the water depth, assumed to be small compared to the wavelength. Because their speed changes, water waves refract when moving into a region of different depth.

Suppose waves approach the coast from a storm far away to the north–northeast. Demonstrate that the waves move nearly perpendicular to the shoreline when they reach the beach.

Suppose waves approach the coast, carrying energy with uniform density along originally straight wave fronts. Show that the energy reaching the coast is concentrated at the headlands and has lower intensity in the bays.

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genius_generous answered 1 year ago

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