In: Economics
A bracket is either of two tall fore- or back-facing punctuation marks commonly used to isolate a segment of text or data from its surroundings. Typically deployed in symmetric pairs, an individual bracket may be identified as a left or right bracket or, alternatively, respectively, depending on the directionality of the context.
Specific forms of the mark include rounded brackets square brackets, curly brackets , and angle brackets as well as various less common pairs of symbols.
As well as signifying the overall class of punctuation, the word bracket is commonly used to refer to a specific form of bracket, which varies from region to region. In the United States, an unqualified 'bracket' typically refers to the square bracket; in Britain and most other English-speaking countries, the round bracket.
It is proper to use brackets to clarify or add to something that is already stated within parentheses. However, it's probably a good idea to avoid this. Some very talented writers can get away with it, but teachers will consider this cumbersome and awkward for the most part.
Technique use:
1. Playing it Safe :
First, no matter how sure you are of your camera settings, you might be wrong. The three exposures you planned – one overexposed, one underexposed, and one correct – won’t always turn out that way. Instead, you might capture one underexposed photo, underexposed photo, and one that is correct. No one is a perfect judge of exposure in the field, especially in high-contrast light or other tricky conditions. Bracketing, then, is a way to take precautions against common errors you might make. Especially for important images, it’s a low-risk, high-reward technique.
2. Merging Photos:
Other times, bracketing is the only way to capture the photo you have in mind . For example, if you’re shooting an ultra-high-contrast scene, one photo just might not cut it. A single “normal” exposure will lead to highlights that are too bright, while also resulting in dark, noisy shadows. Although you can sometimes get around this sort of problem with a graduated ND filter, the more practical option in many cases is to do things digitally. Take an underexposed photo so the highlights look good, plus an overexposed photo so the shadows are right. Then, combine the best parts of each photo into an HDR or luminosity blend.
3. Aperture: First, aperture is often the worst of the three settings you can bracket, since it affects depth of field in addition to just exposure. If you try to create an HDR from f/4 to f/5.6 to f/8, the result may look very odd (with unnatural transitions from blurry to sharp regions). A five-image bracket would be worse. Many of the individual photos will no longer have the right depth of field, making them unusable. Imagine how annoying it would be for your only good exposure of a scene to have the wrong depth of field…
4. Shutter Speed: Third is shutter speed – the exposure setting you should always adjust first if possible. Especially if you’re shooting from a tripod, and your subject isn’t moving, it’s a no-brainer; shutter speed is the way to go. However, in scenes with quickly-moving subjects and the potential for motion blur, you might not have the flexibility to bracket shutter speed. In those cases, ISO is often the better choice. I still wouldn’t bracket aperture – although perhaps you can use a wider aperture for all your photos so you no longer have a problem bracketing shutter speed.
How to do focus Breaeting:
Focus bracketing is easier than exposure bracketing, since there is only one setting under consideration: focus distance. Here, your goal usually involves focus stacking the images in post-processing later. However, in some cases – like a group photo where you need everyone sharp, but don’t know exactly where to focus for the best result – there is still an element of playing it safe. Focus bracketing works best when you overlap your depth of field from shot to shot. If your “steps” are too wide, you might end up with a final photo that looks very odd: sharp, blurry, sharp, blurry, sharp, and so on from the front of the frame to the back.
Breaeting for money:
Many people assume that when they “move up a tax bracket” every dollar they earn is taxed at a new, higher rate leading to lower take-home pay overall. Thankfully, that isn't the case. When you “move up a tax bracket” you only pay a higher tax rate on the income above a threshold.When you “move up a tax bracket” you only pay a higher tax rate on the income above a threshold. The rest of your income is taxed at the same rate (or rates) as before. In this article we explain what it really means to move up a tax bracket, how to calculate your tax bill, and the possible downsides of earning more.
The Track—Before we get into the nuts and bolts of an actual race, let’s explore the nuts and bolts of where you’ll be competing—the track. Most tracks are a quarter-mile in length; but there are a good number of eighth-mile tracks too. Refer to Slide #1 in the Slide Show to see where the following areas are located:
Burnout Box—the area just before the starting line that is sprayed down with water so you can do a quick burnout to warm up the tires or slicks for better traction and get rid of any debris lodged in them.
hutdown Area—The area past the finish line, usually a quarter-mile or more in length, where you can safely slow the car down to take the turnout to the time slip booth. If something goes wrong and you can’t stop the car, most tracks have a sand trap, net, or other setup at the end of the shutdown to stop.
Green Light—This is the one you’re waiting for. When it flashes, it means you’re late if you’re not moving yet! This point of the run is called the launch.
Red Light—This light will flash if you break the stage beam before the green light is activated. Known as redlighting, this action automatically disqualifies you and gives the win to your opponent.